Bread Ahead’s expansion drive has had the unforeseen consequence of it facing eviction from its original site in London’s Borough Market.
The craft bakery brand currently operates five stores and two market stalls across the capital, a dozen more shops in the Middle East, and one in Thailand. It is set to open further sites in New York and the Philippines later this year.
Having started out as a stall at Borough Market in 2013, the business moved into its first brick-and-mortar site at the market’s periphery the following year. From here it sells products such as its signature Crème Brûlée doughnuts streetside, with production downstairs and a bakery school upstairs.
However, in an Instagram post yesterday (10 September), founder Matthew Jones revealed his business had been informed by Borough Market management to wind down operations, which he noted would put at risk 83 jobs.
“Apparently, we’ve become too successful for Borough Market,” said Jones, adding that they’d been told their international growth meant their lease would not be renewed.
“But perhaps the hardest part of all is the uncertainty,” the founder continued. “Running a business is challenging enough in the current climate without being left not knowing what the future holds for your team, your business and the place you call home.”
Jones stressed that his company hadn’t become a multi-national, nor a faceless chain. “We are still founder-led. We still bake, we still teach, we still employ people and we still have our roots firmly planted in Borough Market,” he asserted. “Yes, we have grown. But surely that should be something to celebrate, not a reason to ask us to leave.”
Bread Ahead is now appealing to its 427k Instagram followers and customers to weigh in with their support for the bakery to stay at Borough Market.
Borough Market responds
A statement from Borough Market subsequently provided to British Baker said: “Our relationships with traders are really important to us, whether they’re actively trading or as part of our alumni of success stories. No matter how long businesses are with us for, we value their contribution to making Borough Market what it is.”
The market noted that, as a responsible landlord, its decisions around lease renewals are made through a formal process and communicated to the trader well in advance of the expiry date. “We continue to be in contact with the Bread Ahead team about their future at the market, but as discussions relating to individual tenancies are confidential it would not be appropriate to comment on the specific details of this case,” it added.
“Our approach is to apply these processes fairly and consistently, while ensuring Borough Market continues to evolve and thrive as one of London’s leading food destinations where independent businesses can thrive.”
A new model for business
The news comes at a time when the company has unveiled a brand-new expansion model for the UK, replacing its hunt for franchise partners in London which began earlier this year.
As Bread Ahead’s first UK branch outside of the capital, a new bakery site in Harpenden will be opened on 12 October under an owner-operated model. The firm said this is built around identifying key team members that it wants to reward, invest in and support as ambassadors for the brand within their local communities.
“Every operator will bring different strengths and experiences to the role. What they all have in common is a passion for their craft, a deep understanding of the Bread Ahead brand and values, and a proven track record of commitment to the business,” said the company.
The model itself can be adapted to suit the individual. For example, a head baker can operate a bakery with production facilities that support multiple locations, while a retail leader is better suited to running a customer-facing bakery.
Whilst no personal capital investment is required from the operator – other than “the investment they have already made in themselves throughout their career” – the model sees them receive a share of the profits after a small royalty is paid back to Bread Ahead. A proportion of this fee will be earmarked for funding further owner-operator bakeries, noted the company.
Emese Dombai Szucs, the long-standing head chef at Bread Ahead Wembley, is being handed the keys for the new Harpenden site. Since joining over five years ago, she is said to have established herself as a pillar of the Wembley team, consistently demonstrating professionalism, resilience and a strong commitment to colleagues and the wider business.
Bread Ahead said Harpenden was chosen due to its strong sense of community, with neighbouring businesses describing the town as the “Harpenden Bubble”. The 2,500 sq ft site will house production, a bakery school and an all-day dining space for around 40 covers.
Alongside the brand’s usual bakery offering, Harpenden will serve a light breakfast and brunch menu featuring some of the most popular dishes from Wembley including Shakshuka, Eggs Benedict, and the Baker’s Breakfast, comprising smoked streaky bacon, Cumberland sausage, Clarence Court eggs, baked beans, hash browns, tomato, and fresh sourdough with English butter.
Bread Ahead confirmed it was continuing to explore growth options in the UK, but noted it would be organic, measured and deliberate rather than accelerated for the sake of growth. “We’d rather open fewer bakeries with outstanding owner-operators than compromise on the principles that make the model work,” it added.
No comments yet